Growth Update!
Monday, February 08, 2010 | 6 comments

It's been two months since the last update! Sorry for the hiatus, lovelies. We'll be updating more frequently now. Anyway, I am one month away from my first year ful...

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Porosity is the measure of the hair's ability to absorb moisture. This is determined by the condition of the hair's cuticle layer (the overlapping scales of the hair shaft), and is rated as low, normal, and high. In normal, healthy hair, the cuticle is compact and inhibits the penetration of the hair shaft by moisture - both moisture going in, and moisture coming out. When the cuticle is overly compact and prevents the penetration of the hair by moisture it has low porosity. Hair with low porosity is harder to process, and is resistant to haircolor and perms. Low porosity hair must usually be softened prior to other chemical services. Hair with high porosity is hair whose cuticle layer is open and the hair too-readily absorbs moisture. Overly-porous hair also releases moisture easily and becomes dry and is easily damaged. Acid-balanced conditioning treatments are used to contract the cuticle layer and lock-in moisture on overly-porous hair.

Extreme caution must be used when performing chemical services on overly porous hair to prevent damage. Haircolor will take much more quickly and strongly in overly porous hair (and semi-permanent and demi-permanent haircolors will fade much more quickly). Perms and straighteners will process much faster in high-porosity hair as well. To determine the porosity of your hair, simply feel it - both when wet and when dry. If the hair feels straw-like and rough when dry, or if it feels gummy or slightly rubbery when wet, then you probably have a problem with overly porous hair.



Remember Dalilredmama's last update? Here's her latest update. The first picture is from December 2008 and the second is from today, but we put it as June 2009.


By next year, my hair should be...


Shea butter can help protect your hair from UV rays! It is a minor natural sunscreen.

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Teyana Taylor looking fierce in her latest photoshoot. Click the images for a better view.

Photos via TheYbf

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Ceramides penetrate the hair at to help reinforce and strengthen the hair while protecting it from heat damage. It also preserves hair elasticity!


This is a miss for me. The outfit is very "Sasha Fierce," but the hair isn't. Maybe she was going for a Bohemian look, I don't know -- but I don't like it.

What do you guys think?

Photos via TheYbf


Rating: Great! (9/10)

Product Name: Silky Sexy Hair Shampoo
Price Range: $9.99-$10.99 (10 oz)
Company: Sexy Hair Concepts (
Catch Phrase: Bathe your hair in luxury with Silky Sexy Hair smoothing shampoo from Sexy Hair Concepts. For ultra moisture and shine!

I've been off sulfate-based shampoos for a while now, but I really wanted to try this one so I did. I rinsed my hair with lukewarm water, added shampoo to the palm of my hands, and rubbed it on my scalp. I rinsed the shampoo off my scalp and the runoff cleaned my hair. My hair didn't have that usual stripped feeling and it was still soft. I would keep this as a regular shampoo if it didn't have ALS in it. I'll just use it as a scalp cleanser from time to time. Has anybody tried it? Share your experiences!

Ingredients: Deionized Water (Aqua), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Glycol Distearate, Lauryl Glucoside, Propylene Glycol, Silk Amino Acid, Cyclomethicone, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Simmondsia Chinesis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Unsaponifiables, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Polyquaternium 7, Quaternium 75, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, PEG-120, Methylglucose, Dioleate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Citric Acid, Methylparaben, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Mehtylisothiazolinone, Fragrance (Parfum)

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What is dandruff?
Dandruff is dead, flaky skin cells found on the scalp.

What causes it?
Dandruff is caused by dead skin cells flaking off as the top layer of the scalp replaces itself. It is also caused by the by-products of micro-organisms (i.e bacteria or yeast), sebaceous secretions, and exposure to extreme climates.

Rarely, dandruff can be a manifestation of an allergic reaction to chemicals in head lice, hair gels, hair sprays, hair oils, or sometimes even dandruff medications like ketoconazole. (Source)

How can you treat it?
Treatments that can help control dandruff include anti-fungal/-dandruff shampoos. For those who prefer for home remedies, Tea tree oil and baking soda are great for controlling dandruff.

If dandruff is still a problem, it might be a symptom for something much more serious like eczema, seborrhoeic dermatitis, or another scalp disorder. You might need to consult a dermatologist if that's the case. Hope this helps!


While browsing through the hair care aisles of Wal-Mart, I happened upon a hair care line called ceXpress. The product names and packaging seemed oddly familiar, but it didn't hit me until I got home... they reminded me of Carol's Daughter products! I decided to look up the products and found even more interesting things.

"It's important that consumers know where Carol's Daughter is really made, what the relevant facts are and that the whole home spun story is nothing more than marketing spin," says Donyale Bush of ceXpress (a.k.a Carol's Express).

The defense against the complaint filed by Carol's Daughter substantiates the high quality of Carol's Express and ceXpress brands. Carol's Daughter and the Carol's Express brand were made in the same warehouses at the time the suit was filed. Neither brand was made in the kitchen as of the filing date of the suit.

"This is a desperate attempt to continue to exploit consumers for anywhere from $20-$45 per product, when we provide a high quality product in ceXpress at half the price. We provide the consumer with a nature-based product at a sexy value. We know this will make our customer base, which we know to be savvy customers scrutinizing every dollar in this economy, happy."

So, what do you guys think?


Another fly hairstyle from misskrisnew.


Your name/username:
Chastity Aka KinkyCoils

Where are you from?
Northern Virginia

How long have you been Natural?
7 years in November

Tell us your hair story. Why did you decide to go Natural?
It's funny because when I was 16 years old I told myself I was going to go natural when I got "old" which old to me then was! Well, when I just turned 25 year old I decided I didn't want to relax my hair anymore. So my last relaxer was Aug. 10 2002. I began transitioning at the end of August. I had no real reason (like hair breaking although it was breaking) I just knew it was time and I was ready. I transitioned for three months doing cornrows, roller set, and braidouts. After three months and finding NP I couldn't take the two-different textures anymore so Nov. 21, 2002 I did my first big chop. After that I never looked back and since I've did the big chop three times. I've had locs and chopped then chopped again Feb. 2007.

What do you like most about being Natural?
I like the fact that it really is versatile; if I wanted it straight I could straighten it (although I haven't) or I could wear it "curly". I like that my natural hair is not the norm and it's me. It's what I came into this world with.

What technique has helped you the most?
Oh man! I think that protective styling as well as no combing is what has helped me. The best thing is I'm still learning my hair even after seven years! It's got a lot of character and personality.

Okay, tell us about your website.
I don't really have a website it's more of a photo sharing site. It's where I can post pictures of my journey so I can look back and see how far I've come and the fact that other women can look at my pictures and feel inspired is just a plus. It's

Your advice to the readers:
Love who God intended you to be. Love yourself first.


Ah, much better. I'm really loving RiRi's newest hairdo! It's MUCH better than the Thriller inspired 'do she was rockin' not too long ago. What do you think? Do you love it?


As most of you are aware, I no longer shampoo my hair. Instead, I wash my hair with conditioner! It's the best thing I've done for my hair and I wanted to share the method as described in Lorraine Massey's Curly Girl. Note: If you want, you can use shampoo on your scalp, and not your hair if you're worried your scalp won't be as clean.

  • Wash your scalp with conditioner (conditioner washing). Begin your routine by wetting your hair in the shower. Distribute conditioner on your entire scalp and massage your scalp with the tips of your fingers (not your fingernails). This rubbing action will loosen dirt and dandruff which can then be rinsed away. (Be sure to avoid silicones in your hair products, see the Warnings.) Thoroughly rinse your scalp afterwards. Depending on how dry your scalp is, you can conditioner wash, once a week, twice a week, or every day.

    • "The curly-haired can leave their hair hydrated with natural oils and clean their scalps quite well by rinsing only with hair conditioner once a week or less. Rubbing the scalp firmly with fingers is enough to loosen dirt." - Lorraine Massey
  • Distribute conditioner throughout all of your hair and untangle gently. Use your hands or a wide-toothed comb. Start by untangling bottom sections of your hair and then gradually move upwards. Let the conditioner sit in your hair for five minutes or so for extra moisture. You also may want to part your hair at this point with a comb. Part your hair to the side to prevent "triangle-shaped" hair.

  • Do the final rinse of your hair with cool or cold water. This will decrease frizz and add shine. Leave some conditioner in your hair, especially in dry sections like the ends. It is fine to run your fingers through your hair gently, but do not comb your hair after this point.

  • Apply products to your hair. Do it while it is soaking wet if you have curlier hair, but wait five minutes or so if you have medium to wavy curly hair. Put product in your hands and rub them together to emulsify. Then, smooth or rake the product into your hair by sections. A common method is to begin with a leave-in cream or conditioner to decrease frizz and then follow with a gel for hold and definition. (Using your normal conditioner as a leave-in is fine too.) However, use whatever type and order of products you like. Next, finger shape the curls by scrunching them (cup your hair in the palms of your hands and scrunch in an upward motion) and/or twisting individual curls around a finger.

  • Gently scrunch your hair with a t-shirt, paper towels, or a micro-fiber towel to remove excess moisture, as a generic terrycloth towel will make your hair frizzy. You may wish to finger shape your curls at this time instead. Next, wait five or so minutes so the hair can permanently assume its current shape.

  • Decrease the drying time of your hair by plopping. Spread an old t-shirt or micro-fiber towel onto a flat surface (such as the toilet with seat down). Bend over at the waist and position your hair in the middle of the cloth. With your head touching the cloth, drape the back section of cloth over your head. Twist the sides until they form "sausage rolls" and clip or tie them at the base of your neck. After 15-30 minutes remove the cloth. If your hair is frizzy after plopping lightly graze the hair with gel.

    • Plopping works best for medium to long length curly hair. The curls usually become weirdly squished after plopping in shorter hair. See How to Plop Your Hair for more info. as well.


We know that silicones are known to build up on the hair and prevent moisture from entering, but is this true for ALL silicones? Are there silicones out there that won't build up on the hair like others? Here's a list of different silicones:

Silicones that are
not soluble in water and build up on the hair: Cetearyl methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-12 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride, and Trimethylsilylamodimethicone. Note: Trideceth-12 and Cetrimonium Chloride are only considered a silcone when both are combined with Amodimethicone.

Silicones that are slightly soluble in water and will build up on most types of curly hair: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, and Stearoxy Dimethicone.

Silicones that are soluble in water and safe to use (they are not listed with PEG in front of them): Dimethicone Copolyol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane, and Lauryl methicone copolyol.

(via Google)


Rating: Excellent -- WOW! (10/10)

Product Name: Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner
Price Range: $11.00 (8 oz)
Company: Oyin Handmade (
Catch Phrase: Honey-Hemp Conditioner is a light, penetrating, silky blend enriched with aloe vera gel, hemp oil, honey, and hydrolyzed silk protein. It's got nice detangling slip and serious moisturizing power. It rinses cleanly and also makes a nice pre-shampoo deep conditioning treatment. It can even be used as a creamy, nourishing leave-in!

I washed my today and used this as a deep conditioner. It's not too thick or light. It made my hair really soft and the smell is amazing. Very citrus-y! I'm very impressed with this conditioner and I will use it as my deep conditioner for the next few weeks until I run out. Will I buy again? YES! I totally recommend this conditioner for the kinky-haired girls out there. Has anybody tried it? Share your experiences!

Ingredients: water, organic aloe vera gel, behentremonium methosulfate (emulsifier derived from colza oil) honey, coconut oil, hemp oil, vegetable glycerine, hydrolyzed silk, citrus essences, fragrance, preservative, and love!

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Rating: Good. (8/10)

Product Name: Oyin Handmade Greg Juice
Price Range: $11.00 (8 oz)
Company: Oyin Handmade (
Catch Phrase: Greg Juice is an oil-free mixture of vegetable moisturizers and herbal essences combined in a beautiful amber pump spray bottle. It feeds hair like a salad, and is great for moisturizing, detangling & refreshing thirsty hair.

This is a review I've been waiting to do. For the past few years, I've been accidentally finding myself on the company's website and the products are still pretty much the same. I finally decided to buy the Greg Juice, Honey Hemp Conditioner, and Shine & Define Serum. I've been spraying my hair and my sister's hair with the Greg Juice daily and it does detangle nicely. It is sticky though. I think it's the glycerin. The scent is very similar, if not identical, to DevaCurl's Mist-er Right. I like this product, but the stickiness does bother me a bit. Has anybody tried it?

Ingredients: Purified Water Infused with Rosemary, Nettle, Horsetail, Red Sage, Lavender, & Chamomile, Flaxseed Decoction, Organic Aloe Vera Juice, Vegetable Glycerin, Essences of Rosemary, Lavender, Sweet Orange & YlangYlang, Grapefruit Seed Extract, Vitamin C.

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"I've been washing, conditioning, and deep conditioning for a while now, but my hair hasn't changed a bit! What's up?"

Hard water might be to blame. Hard water has a high mineral and chlorine content. Hard water minerals primarily consist of calcium (Ca2+), and magnesium (Mg2+) metal cations, and sometimes other dissolved compounds such as bicarbonates and sulfates. According to the United States Geological Survey, 89.3% of US homes have hard water. Craziness! Having hard water can leave your hair dull, lifeless, and dry. The best way to tell if you have hard water is to simply look at your faucet. Lime residue -- the icky clear stuff -- is the primary sign of hard water.

Treating Hard Water
A water softener could be one way to solve your hard water issue. Why? Water softeners effectively reduce the concentration of hardness minerals to tolerable levels, thus making the water softer and "smoother."

You could also invest in a water filter. Water filters reduce the amount of mineral and chlorine deposits down to about 54-95% (although some companies will claim to reduce it to 99%). A popular water filter you can use is the iWater System.

If you want healthier hair, I suggest you invest in a water softener or filter. You (and your hair) won't regret it! Softer water also means longer color for those who color their hair. If you don't want to buy a softener or filter, you can always wash your hair with a chelating shampoo...



Rating: Excellent! (10/10)

Product Name: Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Cream
Price Range: $3.99-$4.99 (16 oz)
Company: Advanced Beauty Systems, Inc (
Catch Phrase: Cantu shea butter Leave In Conditioning Repair Cream is made with real shea butter and essential oils to replace vital oil in your hair leaving it stronger and healthier with a natural shine.

Cantu shea butter leave in conditioning repair cream can be used on wet hair as an intensive moisturizing treatment or to tame frizz and fly-aways.

I'm starting to think my hair loves shea butter because most of my moisturizers have shea butter in it! I went to the beauty supply down the street and bought this product. I've read some good reviews on it from women with hair textures similar to mine so I knew it would be good. I used it on wet hair and it my hair felt really moisturized. Until it dried. Then, it felt a little dry so I added a little bit more and it was back to soft. This product is great and I do plan to keep it in my product haul. Has anybody tried it?

Ingredients: Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Glycine Soja Oil (Soybean), Propylene Glycol, Polyquaternium 37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, PPG 1 Trideceth 6, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Stearalkonium Chloride, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, Panthenol, PPG 1 PEG 9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, Lanolin Oil, Cinnamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Benzophenone 3, BHA, BHT, Zea Mays Oil (Corn), Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, DMDM Hydantoin, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance

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1. Cut it out!
The best way to get split end free hair is to snip off the damage. Snipping off the damage not only rids the hair of the split ends, but also gives you a fresh start so that you can keep your ends healthy. You can snip off the damage by yourself! Just divide the hair into small ponytails (about 6 or 8) and carefully trim the ends. Doing this will help you keep more hair than you would if you went to a salon.

2. Moisturize and Seal.
Keeping your hair moisturized, keeps the ends conditioned. As we all know, when the hair is conditioned, the hair is much more healthier. Now, to keep the moisture in so that it can penetrate better is another story... that's why we have oils! Natural oils are made up of larger molecules that help the moisturizers, which have smaller molecules, stay put. You can also use shea and cocoa butter as sealants. Now, I know some people might disagree with the last sentence, but both shea butter and cocoa butter are fats, which means that like oil, their molecules are also large.

3. Deep condition that hair.
As I've said time and time again, the key to healthier hair is deep conditioning. Deep conditioning at least once a week is a must if you want to keep your ends as healthy as possible.

4. Baby your ends!
Your ends are the oldest part of your hair so treat them like silk. Keep them off your clothes often to stop unnecessary breakage from the hair rubbing on your clothes.

5. Throw away that brush!
The last thing people ever think about when it comes to taking care of their ends is their brush. Excessive brushing can lead to you damaging the outer layers of the hair thus causing splits. So keep it to a minimum if you MUST brush. This also goes for combs with seams.

I realized that I didn't mention heat usage, but if you've been a reader of this blog for some time, you would know by now to keep use of heat to a minimum. I hope this helps anyone who really needs it.



Although a baking soda/water mix is great for ridding the hair of debris and other particles, too much baking soda in the mix can make the hair dry and brittle. Baking soda has a pH strong enough to dehydrate the hair, so add only a little bit to the water!

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Rating: Great! (9/10)

Product Name: Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner
Price Range: $17.99 (10 oz)
Company: Mixed Chicks, LLC (
Catch Phrase: Finally, a curl-defining formula designed for "us." whether you're black, white, Asian, Latin, Mediterranean, or any glorious combination of the above, you'll love the way this alcohol-free, non-sticky, lightweight, product leaves your hair inviting to touch as it defines and locks moisture into every curl. Be a proud part of our multiracial movement, show your curls and radiantly roll with this leave-in conditioner.

Mixed Chicks penetrates deep into the hair shaft, conditioning as it smoothes the follicle. Work through wet hair, air dry and style as usual. The result is silky, healthy, naturally curly hair.

I wasn't too keen on the fact that it had Amodimethicone in it, but I decided to try it anyway after reading so much good reviews on it. Long story short, I really like this product. It softened up my hair really nicely! I won't be using as a daily moisturizer, but it will definitely be my leave-in conditioner after my monthly clay treatment! Has anybody tried it?

Ingredients: Water, glycerin, amodimethicone, emulsifying wax, hydrolyzed wheat protein,/pvp crosspolymer, methylgluceth-20, hydroxypropyl trimonium choloride, octyl methoxycinnamate, hydroxyethyl celloluse, jojoba oil, safflower oil, primrose oil, wheat amino acid, crosilk, hydrolyzed collagen (marine), phenoxyethanel, methylparaben, proplyparaben, butylparaben, FD&C red #40, FD&C yellow #5, fragrance

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[Lab studies] suggest that heat may be especially damaging to the already vulnerable hair of African Americans.

Companion studies conducted by Lawrence Hu in Dr. Wickett's lab found that relaxer treatments also weakened African Americans' hair, but that use of relaxers on a regular basis actually led to a trend toward normalizing breakage strength.

And use of a relaxer did not further increase the vulnerability of African Americans' hair to heat damage.
So, what does this all mean? Natural hair is more susceptible to heat damage than Relaxed hair. Since Relaxed hair is chemically straightened, the use of heat is lessened compared to Natural hair.